Following the Silk Road, vibrant mélange of know-how and culture

Characterized by criss-crossing trade routes linking the Far East to Europe via India, the Silk Road played a key role in trade between East and West for centuries, and was a vibrant crossroads of cultures, religions and crafts.

From the cradle of some of the world's greatest civilizations, Kantha and Suzani fabrics arrived in Europe via the Silk Road, bringing a touch of bohemian chic to western interior decor.

The Silk Road and the artisanal techniques used to make kanthas and suzanis.

Hand embroidery - cotton threads

© Brian W. Ferry for Condé Nast Traveler - © Jamini

Travel in India - Suzani in Uzbekistan

© Pinterest

The fascinating origins of the Silk Road

Soft, strong and shimmering silk yarn was cultivated in China in the middle of the 3rd millennium BC. According to legend, the art of unwinding silkworm cocoons was discovered by chance by an empress while drinking tea in the shade of a mulberry tree. A cocoon fell into the Empress's cup. Instead of discarding it, she examined it carefully, and discovered by pulling on a thread, that the cocoon could be unwound into a fine fiber.

The Chinese did not seek to export silk beyond their borders, until circumstances forced them to do so. At the end of the 3rd century BC, Emperor Qin Shi Huang began building forts in the north of the country, laying the foundations of what was to become the Great Wall. To achieve this, he needed to establish an alliance with Central Asian tribes to prevent invasions by other nomadic tribes. On his journey into enemy territory (located in the north-west), he discovered mysterious lands with many unknown resources, including horses far larger than those he was used to seeing in China. He immediately thought of trading his silk for these horses. This trade would link China to the lucrative markets of the West, including the rapidly expanding Roman Empire.

The Chinese capital of the time (Chang'an - now Xi'an) was the starting point of this trade route. A network of winding roads ran from east to west, including one that headed for the mouth of the Ganges in India.

Map of the Silk Road

© laterredufutur

Silk threads, India

© Claudio Cambon

Kantha

Brought to Europe via the Silk Road, these quilted and embroidered fabrics are known as quilts (from the Latin "culcita", meaning "padded bag"), then as Kantha. For centuries, women created kantha fabrics of various sizes for their home, a skill that was passed down in the family from generation to generation. Kanthas are formed by layers of old saris and discarded dhotis held together by intricate rows of running stitches. The embroidered stitches hold the multiple layers of recycled cotton together to form a non padded quilt which is soft and comfortable.

Kantha craftsmanship in India

Kantha know-how

Kanthas, vintage Indian fabrics

© Jérôme Galland

Household kanthas were treasured family heirlooms, and were sewn for loved ones as a gesture of thanks and blessing. Women developed their own stitches, almost as a signature, a unique form of expression, a sense of individuality and creativity. With designs ranging from geometric to highly decorative, no two kanthas are ever the same, each one recalling the unique craft of its craftsperson.

In the first half of the 20th century, with the revival of Khadi, the hand-spun and hand-woven cotton supported by Gandhi, Kantha took on a new lease of life. Embroidery evolved to become more sophisticated, varied and colorful, and silk or cotton kantha found its way into wardrobes. Saris, stoles, shawls and scarves depict village scenes, animals and nature.

Kantha fabrics are recycled and eco friendly, making for magnificent vintage decorative pieces. They can be used at the edge of a bed, on a sofa or on an armchair as a throw. Add a few Indian cushions to bring a cozy, bohemian touch to your interior!

Artisanal production of kantha by a craftswoman

Kantha know-how

Handcrafted Indian Kanthas - Jamini

Kanthas © MunaYuuni

Suzani

Suzani is a traditional embroidery technique from Uzbekistan, located in the heart of Central Asia and a major stop on the Silk Road ("suzan" means "needle" in Persian).

Originally used in yurts (nomadic tents in Central Asia) as protective wrapping panels for textiles and personal belongings, suzanis were also used as prayer rugs, bed linen and seats.

Traditional embroidery technique - suzani

© lineshapecolour

Suzanis are made of cotton or silk. The design is first drawn on the cotton, before being embroidered on narrow, portable looms. They are usually made in two or more pieces, which means they can be worked by several people before being sewn together.

Just four stitches - drum, basma, warp and kanda-khayol - are used to create a wide variety of motifs, which traditionally include the sun and moon, flowers and vines of the Asian steppes, leaves and  fruits (particularly pomegranates),  fish and birds. These motifs were believed to confer spiritual powers on suzanis, offering protection and strength to their owners. Each suzani piece is unique and tells a story through its specific motifs. It's a work of art in its own right, and can be used as a bed cover, a tablecloth or even framed like a painting.

Browse our selection of unique Indian hand embroidered fabrics on our website.

Suzani Jamini

Suzanis © MunaYuuni

Hand-embroidered suzani fabric - Jamini

Hand-embroidered Suzani © MunaYuuni

Sources

https://www.nationalgeographic.fr/histoire/les-origines-fascinantes-de-la-route-de-la-soie

https://www.lhistoire.fr/carte/les-routes-de-la-soie

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